Product Review
The 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Heimbourg V.T. reveals considerable unctuousness, superb richness, and a full-bodied, powerful impression on the palate. Tasting like a barrel sample, it needs another 3-4 years of cellaring. It will taste drier as it evolves, and will last for 25-30 years.
Same variety, two different styles of wine. Within Europe Italian producers generally make the light, crisp wine from the grape and label it as Pinot Grigio. Producers in the Alsace region of France call it Pinot Gris and make a much richer, more developed style. Genetically identical to Pinot Noir, it is thought to have mutated in Burgundy with lighter skins to produce a slightly copper/grey colored fruit. In Germany it goes by a couple of synonyms, Rulander if vinified into a sweet wine and Grauer Burgunder (or Gray Burgundy) if dry. The grape has been exported across much of the New World with particular success in Oregon and New Zealand. Both regions take after the richer Alsation style.
Alsace is a viticulturally and geographically unique region of France. Due to the historical toing and froing between France and Germany, Alsace has developed, along with its own dialect, a distinct style of food and wine. Unlike the rest of France who market their wine by location Alsace makes varietal wines, an overwhelming majority of which are white. Although separated from Germany by the Rhine, Alsace's climate is more similar to its neighboring country because of the Vosges mountain range to the west, but which extends south into Germany. The Vosges stops most clouds from heading east and making Alsace the driest region in France. Major varieties include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and Pinot Noir. Although still wines make up the biggest proportion, Crémants d’Alsace are becoming a popular, less expensive alternatives to Champagne. Most are made from Pinot Blanc, however some Blanc de Noirs, made from Pinot Noir, are also produced. Alsace’s trump card is probably its Vendange Tardive (late picked) and sub category, Sélection de Grains Nobles. These are some of the most complex and age worthy wines in the country and are only made in the finest of vintages when weather permits.
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Dessert wines are usually any sweet wine drunk with or around a meal. White fortified wines (fino and amontillado sherry) are usually drunk before the meal, and the red fortified wines (port and madeira) drunk after it. Most fortified wines are regarded as distinct from dessert wines, but some of the less strong fortified white wines, are regarded as honorary dessert wines. In the United States a dessert wine is legally defined as any wine over 14% alcohol by volume, which includes all fortified wines.
