Product Review
The 2010 Veraton is 100% old vine Grenache grown in vineyards planted between 1910 and 1967. Aged in a combination of French and American oak for 17 months prior to being bottled unfiltered, it is one of the world's greatest Grenache values. Lots of crushed, chalky minerality intermixed with explosive notes of kirsch liqueur, lavender and spring flowers are found in this dense, full-bodied, pure red. Some background oak is noticeable, but the full-bodied, lavish concentration of fruit and glycerin are stunning and mouth-saturating. It should drink well for a decade.
One of Spain's finest estates, the still under-the-radar Bodegas Alto Moncayo is a joint venture of Dan Phillips, Jorge Ordonez, Chris Ringland, Jose Miguel San Martin, Bodegas Borsao and others. The top wine is their old vine 100% Grenache cuvee called Alto Moncayo. Their value pick is the Veraton, and both the 2010 and 2011 are outstanding wines as well as terrific bargains.
Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections,Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461
Grenache has claims to have originated in Spain and Sardinia where it is known as Garnacha and Cannonau respectively. No matter where it originated this sun-loving grape has spread with great popularity across the world. The grape’s compatibility with regions that offer long sunny summers ensures a high build up of sugars and conversely low acidity. This and its soft tannin make it a great blending grape with firmer, more structured varieties such as Syrah and Mourvedre to form the trio blend often called GSM. Grenache is frequently grown alongside its blending partners in the esteemed regions of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the Rhone valley and accross South Australia. Unlike a lot of other varieties Grenache needs relatively little attention and is quite happy to be left on poor, unirrigated soils. Because of this hearty nature, pockets of old, neglected, but still productive vines have been found around the world. With enough pruning, these old vines yield small amounts of intense fruit with spectacular results in varietal wines. Depending on where it is grown and how it is handled Grenache can vary from earthy and peppery to jammy red and black fruit with sweet spice qualities. It is also the key constituent (at least 50%) in the wines of Banyuls, one of France’s finest Vins Doux Naturels appellations.
Garnacha is the most well known grape in this region. Vines here have an average age of 30 to 50 years produce some of the best examples of Garnacha wines: concentrated, powerful and very aromatic. Apart from Garnacha, other grape varieties include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mazuelo (Cariñena) and Syrah. Given the difficult conditions, yields are low, hence the concentrated wines. Some lighter-style wines with obvious fruit are also proving popular, as are rosados (rosés). White wines made from Macabeo (Viura), Chardonnay and Moscatel are permitted. Moscatel is most commonly used to create mistelas, made from partially fermented grapes and then fortified with alcohol.
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Red wine is wine made from dark-coloured grape varieties. The color of red differs based on the grapes variety or varieties used.Interestingly, black grapes yield a juice that is greenish-white. The actual red color comes from anthocyan pigments (also called anthocyanins) from the skin of the grape (exceptions are the relatively uncommon teinturier varieties, which produce a red colored juice). Most of the production centers around the extraction of color and flavor from the grape skin.
