Anselmo Mendes Passaros Loureiro - 2022 (750ml)

90 Points, Robert Parker, Mark Squires

The 2022 Loureiro Muros Antigos comes in dry and at 12.7% alcohol. A step up on the Loureiro Pássaros in this report, which seems deeper, but this is crisper with more lift to the fruit. It seems more expressive as well, but at the same time more tightly wound. I can see some liking the Pássaros more, but the nervier presentation here seems to speak to the essence of Vinho Verde. This might be just as deep, but it feels silkier and more energetic due to the acidity. This should age well and probably better than the Pássaros, but we'll see. Its lively demeanor is impressive. Like many of the young 2022s here, it could benefit from some extra bottle time to become more expressive. If you're confused as to the difference between the two, I'll repeat this advice from the winery from a couple of years ago: "Regarding the difference between the Pássaros/Muros Antigos Loureiro, we have 70 hectares of vineyards of Loureiro in the Lima Valley distributed by five estates on the left and right banks. There are no differences in the vinification process between these two wines; the only difference is the origin of the grapes—Pássaros is sourced from the estates located on the right bank of the river, with lower altitude and outcrops of schist, while the Muros Antigos is sourced from the estates located on the left bank of the river, with higher altitude and granitic soils with sandy texture."

The winery makes regular vintage reports. Recently, one contained this for the Monção & Melgaço appellation (in other words, Alvarinho), which you might find interesting, so I'll pass it along:

"From 2000 to 2015, with some alternation, we had Regular (2002, 2004, 2007, 2013), Good (2001, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2014), Very Good (2012, 2015) and Excellent (2005, 2008, 2009, 2011) vintages. From 2015 on, the years have fluctuated between Very Good (2017, 2019, 2021) and Excellent (2016, 2018 and 2020)." For 2022, the winery indicated it was "very good" after fermentation, but they had not yet completed their assessment.

They seemed even happier with the Loureiros. "This vintage, Loureiro wines are exceptional. Alcohol content around 12.5%, very balanced acidity, well-bodied and with perfect varietal exuberance; the aromas show the extreme purity and vibrant acidity of the variety. We couldn’t ask for more."

For myself, I would have to say I've always had a particular fondness in general for 2008 and 2015. If picking blindly, those would be two I'd pick off a list, not necessarily just Mendes's wines. The 2008s are perhaps a bit fresher, while the 2015s are perhaps a bit deeper. I'm rarely disappointed.