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NV Lustau Light Fino Jarana 750ml

NV Lustau Light Fino Jarana

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The NV Fino Jarana, aged in Jerez, has a beautiful, classical Fino nose of chalk, dry hay, dry straw (esparto) and nuts, while the palate is very dry, intense and pungent, long, with a pleasant bitter finish. It's both intense and fine. Drink 2013-2014.
Emilio Lustau is one of the better internationally known names in the Sherry world, which is quite remarkable, as they have never been a very big operation. In fact they can be considered a small- to medium-sized bodega for Sherry; they were selling around 350,000 bottles per year. Furthermore, when more and more bodegas and important names have disappeared, been bought and sold, brands and soleras acquired by big drink corporations, Brandy or other businesses cannibalizing wine in some of the bigger companies, it's refreshing to see a firm still betting firmly on Sherry and working so hard to improve their ranges and their international presence, trying new products (they have produced a small lot of unfiltered biologically aged wine from the three different towns, Jerez, El Puerto and Sanlucar) and experimenting in many different ways. Their range might be too wide (35 to 40 different wines), but that works for them, as they can diversify in different markets and have the correct wine for the price and quality required. They also pioneered the idea to bottle small lots from almacenistas (small bodegas who produce and age wine that they sell to other bodegas rather than offering bottled to consumers) showing the name of the almacenista and the village where the wine has aged. Emilio Lustau was created in 1896 by Jose Ruiz-Berdejo who was himself an almacenista in Jerez; he worked his vineyards and produced wines that he sold to the big exporting houses. In 1940 his son-in-law Emilio Lustau took over and enlarged the business, which in 1950 became an exporting firm. Through the 70's and 80's they continued combining tradition with new ways and ideas. In 1990 the company was bought by Luis Caballero, a businessman from El Puerto de Santa Maria in love with Sherry, whose stellar product was Ponche Caballero, the number one liqueur in Spain at the time. He enlarged the company, purchasing vineyards and in 2001 he acquired some bodegas from their neighbors, Harveys, in Jerez, like the impressive 14-meter high Los Arcos and Las Cruces. In 2008 they bought some famous brands and soleras that had belonged to Domecq and were true icons of Sherry wine in Spain, 4,000 botas in total, 2,600 of them of Fino La Ina, perhaps the better known Sherry brand locally together with Tio Pepe from Gonzalez-Byass. This will bring them additional volume, mainly in the local market, perhaps to become a half-million bottle per year winery. Walking around the bodegas with director Federico Sanchez-Pece, I bumped into some newish-looking barrels and showed surprise. “Oh! These are botas that belong to Jameson, we fill them with Oloroso and they stay here two or three years before they take them to Ireland to use them for the aging of their whisky.” Breaking new barrels with wine to take away the harsh tannins and the excessive aromatic components of the wood is called envinar in Spanish. Apparently this is a common side-business in some Sherry bodegas, ‘wining' (envinar) new botas for whisky producers, or even selling small quantities of their own, used botas for finishing small lots of special whisky. I have to say that I was extremely impressed with their VORS range, which showed very old, powerful, quality wines and had the feeling that the quality of the Lustau wines seems to be on the way up.
Imported by Europvin, www.europvin.com

89 Points - Wine Advocate

Producer: Bodegas Lustau
Website: www.lustau.es/


Price: $19.99

Availability: 13

Available Vintages:

Varietal: Palomino
In Spain, the Palomino grape is split into the sub-varieties Palomino Fino, Palomino Basto, and Palomino de Jerez, of which Palomino Fino is by far the most important, being the principal grape used in the manufacture of sherry.

Country: Spain
With more area under vines than any other country, it ranks third in terms of quantity of wine produced. The range of its wines is a reflection of the country's regional climatic diversity ranging from the rich and sumptuous reds of the hot and arid Ribera del Duero to the light, crisp whites of the cool Atlantic region of Galicia and Basque Country. For some of the country's best reds, try the regions of Rioja, Navarra, Ribera del Duero, Priorat, and Murcia. Spain is also responsible for some of the world's finest fortified and dessert wines, the finest of which come from the town Jerez (Sherry), in Andalucía.

Region: Sherry - Jerez
A unique fortified wine made in and around the town of Jerez, from which it takes its crudely anglicized name. The region is shaped by a strong Mediterranean climate. Summers are hot with normal temperatures of 85 to 105 degrees fahrenheit and little to no rainfall during most of the growing season. What makes this seemingly inhospitable region ideal are its climatic and geographic peculiarities. The greatest influence comes from two winds; the Levante (Easterly), which brings hot, dry air from the Mediterranean, and the Poniente (Westerly), which draws in a cooler, more humid stream from the Atlantic down to the Straits of Gibraltar. The region also benefits from a stunning white, calcareous soil called Albariza. The triangle of land inside the points of Jerez, Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlucar de Barrameda is demarcated as Jerez Superior and has the best balance of nutrients. The chalky, sandy soil does an incredible job of trapping moisture under its sun baked crust, providing the native varieties (Palomino, Muscatel, and Pedro Xinmenez) with a continuous source of water throughout the growing season. Its brilliant white color reflects most of the light, and therefore heat, away from the ground maintaining a sustainable temperature under the vines' canopy. While there are a number of different styles of Sherry there are two broad types; oxidized and unoxidized. Within the unoxidized branch, Finos are the lightest, with Manzanillas (a Fino from the town of Sanlucar de Barameda) being the lightest of all. Amontillados start life in the same way as a Fino, but the protective layer of yeast on their surface, called flor, dies away, allowing a slight oxidative character, reminiscent of roasted nuts. A richer style, Palo Cortados, are considered by many aficionados as among the finest wines. During the aging process, the flor dies away as with an Amontillado, but these are made with only the finest juice. Traditionally these wines occurred only by accident among barrels selected to be delicate finos, but a modern understanding of the yeasts allows them to be produced deliberately year after year. Olorossos are intended to be oxidized from the outset, and are often left outside of the cool bodegas to bake in the sun. Pedro Ximenez is both a grape variety and a luscious, sweet style made from raisined berries which are then fermented in the same manor as Olorosos. While some of the younger examples are great served on ice-cream, some older VOS and VORS develop incredible length and complexity.


Type: Fortified and Dessert
Dessert wines are usually any sweet wine drunk with or around a meal. White fortified wines (fino and amontillado sherry) are usually drunk before the meal, and the red fortified wines (port and madeira) drunk after it. Most fortified wines are regarded as distinct from dessert wines, but some of the less strong fortified white wines, are regarded as honorary dessert wines. In the United States a dessert wine is legally defined as any wine over 14% alcohol by volume, which includes all fortified wines.